Saving You Time and Money

When I first started surfing I used to catch about 3-5 waves per session. That went on for 3 years! I was surfing on the wrong board and didn’t know any better! In year 3 I purchased the right board and in my first session with it I caught 40 waves! That’s a 10x change overnight! That’s the difference between having the right board and having the wrong board. The wrong board also has real monetary costs associated with it. If you buy the wrong board you’ve wasted your $500-$1000. In this guide we cut through all the BS around buying boards. When you’re starting out, you should get an epoxy board that costs around $500-$600 (more details below). Don’t buy that beautiful $1200 fiberglass board (you should buy that board later on, more details below), you’re gonna ding it up and it’s gonna bum you out. We also don’t recommend foam boards, they’re also gonna waste you about $500 because they’re only good for your first 10 or 20 days. Finally, if you buy the wrong board for $1000 and then have to spend another $500 to get the right board, you’re pretty deep in the hole. That’s why this 5 minute read will save you anywhere in the ballpark of $500-$2000. Not to mention the time that it will save you surfing on the wrong board. Surfing is meant to be fun and stress free, this guide will help get you there.

-Grant

What’s the First Surfboard I should buy?

Please follow these instructions very closely. Buying the wrong board will make you HATE surfing. The number one most important thing to do is buy a board that is MUCH BIGGER than what you think you need. Do not give into the temptation to buy anything shorter than what we recommend, no matter the inconvenience or perceived added value (cheaper, easier to carry/transport, cooler, etc)

1. Board Type - Buy a Hard Epoxy Board. Good brands in this category are: Torq, NSP.

2. Board Size (all based on weight). If you are:

   1. <140 lbs, buy a minimum 9’0” board

   2. between 140-160 lbs, buy a minimum 9’4” board

   3. between 160-180 lbs buy a minimum 9’8” board

   4. between 180-200 lbs buy a minimum 10’ board

   5. If you weigh more than 200 lbs, there’s a special type of board you need, its called the “Walden Mega Magic”.

   6. between 200-220 lbs get a 9’6 mega magic.

   7. between 220-240lbs, 10’ mega magic.

   8. Over 240 lbs get a 10’6” Mega Magic. You can be an amazing surfer no matter your size!!!

3. Nose Rocker - Simply put, this is how curved the nose is when you look at it from the side. More curve = fewer nose dives. Make sure you get a board with plenty of nose rocker (nicely curved). DO NOT GET A BOARD WITH FLAT NOSE ROCKER (no curve in the nose), you will hate it and will quit surfing.

4. Board Thickness - The brands I recommended, Torq and NSP, almost exclusively sell thick boards. DO NOT buy a long board that is thin. That’s a performance board and will be very hard to use when you’re starting out.

Shouldn’t I buy a foam board if I’m new to surfing?

Foam boards are only good for the first 10-20 days of your surf career. After that you will quickly outgrow them. This is because foam boards are much harder to turn than hardboards. Foam boards have 90 degree rails (the side of the board) at the bottom of the board, hard boards have a continuous curve. This is why hard boards are easier to turn. Once you start turning, a foam board will hold back your progress in a very significant way. Just make sure you’re careful with your hard board to not get hit in the head, or to hit anyone else!

Where Should I buy a surfboard?

In Northern New England, Cinnamon Rainbows has the largest selection of boards. You are most likely to find the right size board shopping there. We are not saying anything about the quality of other shops. Every shop we deal with in New England is amazing, we are simply letting you know where the most boards are. If you want to make things more difficult (but less expensive), you can find a board on Craiglist or FB marketplace, but make sure it meets all the specs described above.

How Much Does a Surfboard Cost?

An epoxy longboard will run you around $500 new. If you need something special like the Mega Magic, you might pay significantly more.

I have a limited budget where should I buy a board?

If your budget is limited (<$500) you’re going to have to put more effort into finding the right board. Try craigslist, and FB marketplace. You’ll likely have to look every day but you should be able to find something used within a couple of weeks.

What kind of wetsuit should I buy?

We DO NOT have a brand preference. We do have thickness preferences based on the time of year. Wetsuits are rated by two thickness numbers, the first tells you the thickness (in mm) in the chest and legs, second number is thickness of the arms. If you run cold you will need a thicker suit than recommended.

June-September: 3/2mm

September-November: 4/3mm w/ hood

November-May: 6/5mm w/ hood w/7mm gloves, 9mm boots. (yes we’re serious). Add an extra 2mm top if you run cold.

When should I buy a shorter board?

First off, always have a longboard in New England, otherwise you won’t be able to surf most days. If you go shorter DON’T SELL YOUR LONGBOARD. Don’t go shorter until you are a highly advanced level longboarder. You should be able to ride waves up to 8 feet tall, speed pump, nose ride, carve and trim, backside rail grab for a start. This can take many years.

Leash Selection

A leash is one of those things you don’t think about until you don’t have one — and then you really wish you did. Your leash length should always be at least the same length as your board, and if anything, a little longer. For a 9’ board, buy a 9’ leash (or even 10’ if you want more room). Too short of a leash and your board will come back at you like a missile every time you fall. Too long and it drags like an anchor in the water. Thickness matters too: thinner leashes create less drag, but they break faster — and beginners wipe out a lot, so get a standard 7mm thickness. Always make sure your leash has a swivel (the little metal joint that lets it spin), otherwise it will tangle into knots every session and drive you insane. Don’t buy cheap generic leashes, they snap at the worst possible times and you’ll be stuck swimming in from way out back. Spend the extra $10 and get something from FCS, Dakine, or Creatures of Leisure. It’s not glamorous, but your leash is a safety tool — it saves your session, saves your board, and maybe even saves your life.

Wax & Traction Pads

Wax is one of the simplest but most important parts of your surf setup. If you don’t have grip, you’ll be sliding all over your board like a bar of soap. Surf wax comes in different temperature ratings: cold, cool, warm, and tropical. In New England, you’ll be using cold or cool most of the year — don’t buy tropical wax unless you’re headed to Puerto Rico. The trick with wax is layers: start with a basecoat (hard wax that doesn’t melt), then add soft wax that matches the water temp. Reapply a light coat every few sessions, but don’t cake it on so thick that it looks like frosting. Traction pads are a different story — they’re mostly for shortboards, not longboards. Beginners don’t need them, because you’ll spend most of your time shuffling your feet, not stomping on a back foot pad. But if you transition to a shorter board, a good traction pad will save your session by giving your back foot an anchor point. The bottom line: wax is cheap, easy, and makes a huge difference — use the right kind, keep it fresh, and don’t overthink it.

Fins & Fin Setups

Fins are like the tires on a car — they completely change how your board performs. The good news is you don’t need to obsess over fins when you’re starting out, but you should at least know the basics. A single fin setup is classic for longboards: smooth, stable, and great for cruising. Thrusters (three fins) are the standard for most modern shortboards and give you balance between speed and maneuverability. Quads (four fins) are faster down the line but looser in turns, and 2+1 setups (a big center fin with two small side fins) are the most versatile for mid-lengths and longboards. Bigger fins mean more hold (stability), smaller fins mean looser turns. Beginners should stick with whatever fins come with the board — you’ll barely notice the difference until your skills improve. But one day, switching fins will feel like getting a whole new board, so it’s good to understand the basics early. If you do upgrade, start with reputable brands like FCS or Futures. And don’t lose your fins — replacements can cost $50–$150, which stings more than a wipeout.

Boots, Gloves & Hoods (Cold Water Essentials)

If you’re surfing in New England, you will spend most of your surf life in cold water. That means boots, gloves, and hoods aren’t optional — they’re the difference between surfing in March and sitting at home staring at a forecast. Boots are the most important: they keep your feet warm, but they also give you traction on the board. They should fit snug, like a second skin, because loose boots fill with water and rub your feet raw. Gloves are next, and they’re a love-hate relationship. Too thick and you feel like you’re paddling with boxing gloves, too thin and your hands freeze solid. For New England winters, 7mm gloves are a must. A hood might seem optional, but the first time you get ice-cream headaches from duck-diving in 38° water, you’ll never question it again. A good hood seals your wetsuit and keeps you surfing longer. Invest in high-quality neoprene — cheap boots and gloves leak fast and ruin sessions. Cold water surfing is all about endurance, and the right gear makes the impossible possible.

Board Bags & Protection

If you don’t have a board bag, you’re going to ding your board. Period. A board bag is like insurance: you may not think you need it, but when you’re sliding your board in and out of cars, doorways, and garages, you’ll thank yourself. Day bags are lightweight, padded enough for local travel, and protect your board from dings and sun. Travel bags are thicker and meant for flights — if you plan to travel with your board, never cheap out on the bag. Boards left in the sun or a hot car can delaminate (the top layer bubbles up), and once that happens, your $500 board is toast. A bag also makes carrying your board easier with shoulder straps and zippers for storage. Plus, it keeps wax from melting all over your car seats. Don’t think of it as an accessory — it’s essential if you want your board to last. Spending $100 on a bag saves you $500–$1000 in replacement costs. Protect your board and you protect your sessions.

Surfboard Repairs & Ding Fix Kits

Every surfer dings a board eventually, no matter how careful you are. The key is to fix it before it ruins the board. A ding is any crack that lets water seep into the foam, and once water gets in, it spreads like mold. You need to know that epoxy boards and fiberglass boards require different repair kits — don’t mix them up. Quick DIY repair kits like Solarez are lifesavers for small dings, and you should keep one in your car at all times. For bigger cracks, always take your board to a shop — they’ll make it look new again. Never surf a board with an open ding, because the waterlogging will change the way it floats forever. If you do get water in, drain it immediately and let it dry for days before patching. Repairs aren’t glamorous, but they save you hundreds of dollars over time. A well-maintained board can last you years, while a neglected one can die in a single season. Treat your board like a car: small fixes now prevent big bills later.

Transporting Your Board

Transport is one of the biggest headaches for new surfers. If you have a truck or van, you’re golden — just throw it in the back. But most of us have cars, and that means roof racks. Use foam pads or surf-specific racks, and always tie your board deck-down, fins up. Never use ratchet straps, they’re too strong and will crush your board. Stick with proper tie-down straps with locking buckles. If you’re carrying more than one board, put the biggest on the bottom and stack from there. Don’t drive with boards sticking out the window — not only is it unsafe, but you’ll eventually slam the board on something. Carrying your board to the beach is also a skill: never hold it flat in strong wind, or it’ll turn into a sail. Use your hip and arm to balance it sideways. Transportation may sound boring, but if you do it wrong, you’ll break boards before you even surf them.

Surf-Specific Sunscreen & Skin Protection

Surfing means spending hours in the sun, and nothing ruins a surf trip faster than a blistering burn. Regular sunscreen doesn’t cut it — it washes off in minutes. You need surf-specific, water-resistant sunscreen, ideally zinc-based. The thicker the zinc, the better it works — you’ll see surfers with white stripes on their nose and cheeks, that’s not fashion, that’s survival. Rash guards are also underrated: they prevent sunburn and protect your chest from wax rash. Long sessions in salt water can rub your skin raw if you’re not covered. For cold days, your wetsuit covers you, but in summer, a good rash guard saves you hours of pain. Don’t forget your lips — lip balm with SPF is essential. And don’t be cheap: a $15 bottle of sunscreen saves you from medical bills down the line. Skin protection isn’t optional — it’s the only way to surf for decades without paying the price later.

Surf Watches & Tide Apps

Surfing isn’t just about the waves, it’s about the conditions. If you show up at the wrong tide, you can waste hours waiting for waves that never come. That’s why surf watches and tide apps are game-changers. A good tide app tells you when the swell, wind, and tide line up, so you only paddle out when it’s worth it. Surf watches like Rip Curl and Nixon even track your sessions, counting waves and time spent paddling. As a beginner, you don’t need a fancy watch, but you should always check a free app like Surfline or Magicseaweed before heading out. Conditions change fast, and knowing when and where to go saves you endless frustration. The best surfers don’t just ride waves — they read forecasts and time sessions perfectly. Once you start using apps, you’ll wonder how you ever surfed blind. Knowledge is free, use it.

Board Progression Roadmap

Your first board will always be a big epoxy longboard, but it won’t be your last. As you improve, you’ll start to crave more maneuverability. That’s when you add a mid-length or funboard (around 7’–8’). These boards paddle easier than shortboards but turn faster than longboards, making them the perfect bridge. Don’t sell your longboard — you’ll always need it in small New England surf. Once you master trimming, turning, and handling bigger waves, you can add your first shortboard. Expect this to take years, not months. Your quiver (your collection of boards) should expand gradually, not impulsively. Each board has a purpose: small waves, big waves, travel, or performance. Buying boards in the right order saves you thousands of dollars and years of frustration. The wrong progression makes you hate surfing, the right one makes you fall in love with it forever.